I found myself sitting on a transatlantic flight talking to a retired engineer named Robert from Portland, having decided to leave my quiet Ohio home after eight years of solitary routine following the death of my husband Paul. The catalyst for this sudden departure was a polite but cold phone call from my daughter in law Hannah informing me that I was no longer expected to attend their family Christmas gathering. Rather than sitting alone in a house decorated for guests who were never going to arrive, I booked a twelve day group tour through Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Robert was heading to Munich to visit his daughter and we parted ways at the Frankfurt terminal with mutual wishes of goodwill, which felt like the perfect start to my journey. I joined twenty three strangers led by an energetic guide named Greta, realizing that for the first time since a meticulously planned trip to England with Paul in 1992, I was finally doing something entirely for myself rather than managing logistics for others.
Falling into step with the group immediately connected me with new companions, including a retired attorney from Atlanta named Patricia who had decided movement was better than stillness, and a former high school history teacher from Seattle named Gerald. Our first stop was the medieval Bavarian town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, where the historic timbered buildings and centuries old Christmas market made me realize I had made the right decision. Patricia and I walked through the market stalls together, and I purchased an impossibly fragile glass globe ornament featuring a winter village to add to my tree back home. Later that evening at a traditional long wooden table, Gerald shared fascinating historical details about regional trade routes and building construction that captured my attention completely because his enthusiasm was so genuine. We bonded over our shared experiences of losing our spouses, recognizing that despite our respective losses and the busy lives of our grown children, we were all choosing to be present in this new adventure together.
The journey continued through Nuremberg, Munich, Salzburg, and Innsbruck, where seeing the mountains in person for the first time since a 1998 drive through Colorado shifted my entire frame of reference. The petty family dramas and my eight years of making myself small enough to fit into other people’s plans suddenly faded into the background against the immense scale of the landscape. On the seventh day in Lucerne, I casually posted a photograph to my social media account showing Patricia, Gerald, and me laughing on an ancient wooden bridge over the river. The low golden winter light made the scene look like a painting, but it was my own expression of genuine happiness that prompted a flood of messages from people I had not spoken to since Paul passed away. My son Mark called me late that night from Ohio, clearly surprised and relieved to see me looking so alive and comfortable, prompting an emotional conversation where he apologized for the holiday exclusion while I reassured him about my happiness.